INSTALLATION
I will try to provide better installation notes and diagrams
but for now here is the summary
1. Take off stock headers
2. Add turbo headers
3. Add turbo and wastegate onto headers
4. Add exhaust dump and attach to stock cats
5. Add Intercooler pipes
6. Add oil feed lines and Add oil drain lines
RACE KIT INSTALL NOTES:
REMOVALE
Here is a list of a few things to remove when installing a turbo kit
1. Remove the tail pipe (most likely will require cutting)
2. Remove the catalyic converters with mufflers by taking off cat from header that are bolted in
3. Remove the headers by using a 13mm socket
4. Take out header studs by using 5 mm socket. You will rearrage these later when installing the race headers to fit.
5. Take off all things that will get in your way. Take out battery, overflowtank, front bumper, powersteering rubber lines, powersteering cooler lines, loosen a/c bolts, take out cold air intake, take out the ca smog pump, take out egr
6. Right now would be a good time to tap the oil pan. Look at the pics to see where to tap it at. Use a 1/2" npt tap
In this pic after removing the stock headers I would tap the oil pan first before putting on the turbo headers. You will need to tap it with a 1/2" npt (national pipe thread) tap. First drill out hole with eaither a step drill or a drill bit specified for the tap. This is where you want to tap the oil pan. Above the oil level so don't tap it too low. I would first drain half the oil out. Drill the pan. Put greeze onto the 1/2" npt tap and start tapping. Once finish draining the oil. Use the oil you drained out earlier and jam it into the hole which will flush away extra shavings. Its good practice to flush oil out again after 5 minutes of driving.
More pics of oil drain hole with -12 45 degree hose end fitting and -12 straight fitting on oil pan. Use telfon on threaded non flared ends like pictured on oil pan. Also note that on the filter you can see a brass plug. You will unplug this and put the #8 metric O ring fitting 1/4" female onto this port to feed your turbos with oil.
More pics of the a/c lines being tugged out of the way
Another view of the passenger header
Next Install the driver side turbo header. Remember to use a 13mm socket and open end wrench. You will have to use a 5mm socket to take out the studs and rearrange the shorter studs to the harder to reach places and longer studs to the easier to reach places.
Here is the picture of the cross over pipe which will be installed next. Clock the turbo compressor cover so it faces downward. Be sure to attach the oil drain line, turbo, and wastegate onto the cross over pipe before you put it in the car. Its much easier to do it this way and tighten up all the bolts. Then drop the whole assembly in as one unit and bolt it up to the turbo headers.
Next install the 3" dump pipe. Here is a picture of the exhaust dump pipe with an extra bung welded on for people running wideband o2 sensors.
Another pic of the 3" dump. Also to make the 3" dump pipe fit near the driver header area you will need to relocate the brass brake unit block closer to starter box like pictured below. Unbolt it from inside the tire area and tug and form the lines out of the way of the dump pipes path.
Another view of the dump pipes path. Also be sure to take out battery to make installion much easier.
Next install rest of the exhaust. Here is a picture layout of a single 3.5" magnaflow race muffler single exhaust setup. Those with Y pipe setups make sure you have your exhaust shop attach your mufflers onto the Y pipe. Supported with hangers
Next install the Intercooler pipes. Attach the blow off valve. T bolt clamps and couplers. Use tie wraps to support the weight of the intercooler pipes or build brackets.
Next attach the cnc maf flange pipe with 45 degree silicone rubber to throttle body. If using stock maf be sure to trim some plastic near the sensor area to make it fit flush with the cnc maf flange and use rtv to make it sick onto cnc maf flange. 01+ cars have integrated iat sensors into the maf. 99-00 cars have external iat (Intake Air Temp sensor) so you must eaither get an external threaded iat sensor from a lighting if you plan to use the stock maf sensor for awhile. 4.4 psi is the max recommend boost setting before the maf pegs for stock mafs.
Those that are using bigger injectors and an sctba2800 maf have it a tad easier. The sctba2800 maf is a direct bolt on to the cnc maf flange. Be sure that if you got an 99-00 car to make sure you get a 6 pin maf adaptor so you can use the integrated IAT sensor (Intake Air Temp Sensor). Those with 01+ cars dont' have to worry about this your harness is already 6 pin.
Well that pretty much sums out the pipe layout Install. Here is a view of what it will sorta look like without the motor
Another view of the street kit layout
Now for this section of the install I will show pics of specific detail items along with vacume diagrams.
Here is what one of my customers did for an abs relocation for those equipped with abs.
This here is a good location to relocate the smaller overflow bottle. Also in this pic is where to put the egr block off plate. The plate is right in the center of the motor in front of the blue lines shown in this pic.
Here is pics of the oil feed lines. This here is the #8 metric oil fitting. Use straight 1/4 npt -4an fitting then attach the 90 degree hose end assembly together with lines.
Here is a diamgram for hooking up the vacume lines to the wastegate and bov.
Here is the diagram for hooking up a manual boost controller
Here is a list of braided hose and where they go to.
I will get more installation notes. But here is a quick rundown of what else that needs to be done that I dont currently have pics of.
Valve Cover Breathers:
I like to use vacume hose routed underneath car so you dont' get oil dripping onto the headers and no need for bulky clumsy breather tanks which just cause bad smell.. Just attach some silicone hose to the valve covers and route it underneath the car
