Thru the Floor subframes.

These are made out of 1/8" thick wall 2"x3" mild steel.  These are full lengths that ties the rear and front frames together.  This will stiffing your Chassis by a lot.

Here is a picture of the cutout of the floor pan.  As you can see the front frame is thin sheet metal.  I cut this out completely as well.  As you can see in the rear seat area there is no subframe that ties into the rear.  Its just held by thin sheet metal floor pan the front and rear frame subframes.

Here is the sub frame that I will be adding in.  As you can see its very beefy and gives a good foundation for a roll cage.

Here is what the frame looks like underneath the car from side view.  I will need to relocate fuel lines later.  But it will weld against the unibody

Here is a view of the stock rear rear frame thats attached to the lowercontrol arm.  From this pic you can see that I tie in my subframe right at the rear stock unibody frame.  No longer will the rear frame twist and bend the at this area underneath your seat.  A better design would be to extend my subframe all the way to the rear lower control arm bolt but this requires a lot more work and only one side of the lower control arm will be stiffen since the lower control is offset to the side of the rear frame.

Here is the example of the lower control arm being offset from the frame.  At the very top of the pic is my subframe i made which ties into the stock rear frame which is already pretty decent.

Here is the rear seat view.  Later on I will put plates to spread the load on the rear seat bulkhead.

Here is the K member view. 

Here is the front K member view.  Very close to attaching to the k member .  I probably dont' need to tie it in with plates b/c I dont' have a big block plus it will limited future k member swaps if i ever decided to go with a maxium motorsports k member.  This area also has thicker extra sheet metal plates from the factory about 1/8"

Another View.  Also It retains stock front subframe height.

Another Shot.  Look how nice and leveled it is by using a 5 foot 2"x3" subframe

This will add 56 pounds for 2x3" .12" wall subframes.. .  You can opt for 2"x2" metal to save weight along with going with .083" thick to cut down on weight .  I do plan to put a cage in so I want everything to be strong and there is no better investment in protecting yourself in case of a car crash.

New Update

So after completing the Suframe I decided to rip it apart and replace it with chrome moly tubular subframes instead.  Reason why is b/c of the huge weight savings.  A chrome moly tube subframe will weight 16 pounds total  instead of 56 pounds for th 2x3 .12"   Thats  a 40 pound difference!

Here is the corner attachment. 

Coerner attachment with mig welded plates and tig welded chromemoly

As you can see This is the front of the car.  I added a plate onto whatever subframe i had left and welded the chrome moly tube directly centered.  I used part of my old subframe well 3" worth left of it but im sure you can do the same process to a stock subframe by putting a plate and welding a chrome moly subframe to tie together the rear and front frames together.

Another picture of the front subframe.  Here is the plate im describing that needs to be added.

Here is the whole view of the chrome moly subframe.  About 5 feet worth.  This is a straight chrome moly tube that you can get at s&w racecraft.  They do sell them by the foot and it roughly 8 bucks a foot.

This is how i did the rear section of the subframe.  I added 1/8" thick plates.  As you can see I didn't do exactly a perfect job so had to weld thicker plates in and this is fine.  So basically you have a sheet metal rear and front subframe thats roughly 2x3 attached to a center chromemoly tubular frame directly in the middle of the car and its all being tied together by this process.

Another view of the front part of the subframe from underneath the car.

Here is my 10 pt s&w racecraft cage install.  I went for thru the dash a pillar bars.  Try to get those a pillar bars close to the a pillars.  Its kinda tricky but doable.

Here is a cross member bar that also acts as a driveshaft safety loop.  So i killed 2 birds with one stone.  This was a custom order thru s&w racecraft that you have to call in on since its not in there catalog.

Another view of the cross member.  As you can see i had left overs of the old subframe i built that i decided to keep intact about 3" worth.  I deicded to keep this b/c this helps  getting the subframe directly centered and leveled from front to rear.  You don't exactly have to do this you can have the rear frame higher up leveled with the floor.  However the rear frame might be slightly  higher then the front part of the frame.

Here is another view of the front part of the frame.

Here is a view of the rear of the car.  I decided to have the cage extend all the way to the rear.  Reason is b/c I have no rear safety support beam.  Deleted that shaved 35 pounds.  So this rear chrome moly attachment ties into the rear frame all the way back.  It will also act like a rear bumper beam and also help protected my fuel cell.

Here is another view of the rear cage.  I decided to have the bars spaced out this distance just in case if i ever decided to go put in a 28" wide 4link rear frame rail.

Here is the cross member bar from the above view.  Acts like a driveshaft safety loop as well as some chasis stiffening.  I can also convert it into a 4 link rear frame rail for future conversions.

Here is the roof hoop.  I had it touching  the roof so i can get max head clearance space.  This does pose a little bit of a challenge to weld the top part of the a pillar bars onto the roof hoop.  Also nothcing this area does require a lot of time and patience just to get it right.  This probably isn't the best way to notch this area b/c for one its very hard to cut this shape out perfectly.  The other reason is b/c its hard to weld the top part of it without having to take off your roof or leaving 10 percent of it unwelded.  I recommend when doing the a pillars to have it attach underneath the roof hoop that way you can easily notch it as well as get easy welds around it.  You live you learn and I learned quite a lot from this expierence.

Another pic of the front subframe area.

Here is the finished chrome moly cage all tig welded.  As you can see I just cut the whole floor out.  I should've done this to begin with to make things easier.  So for those looking to do the same thing probably best to cut the whole floor out and rebuilt it later with a flat sheet of sheet metal.

Here is pics of the door bars.  It meets the regulations of under the shoulder over the elbow.  It also fits inside the stock interior doors without problems.  I'll be gutting out both doors and that will shave at least 100 pounds.  Also noticed how I did the seat brackets that are tied into the subframe. I put in 3/8" bolts and welded it in to act like a stud.

Here is the brackets that will hold the stock steering wheel assembly.  I used the stock brackets and welded it onto some short chrome moly tubes.

Here is a pic of the 12 pound kirky aluminum seats.  I had 20 pound polyurthane summit bucket seats but decided to get rid of it b/c the summit bucket seats were 2 wide and was hitting the door bars.  Just a crappy design but you get what you pay for.  These Kirky 15" wide seats are much better and lighter but cost a little bit more.

Here is pics of the main hoop cross bar.  Has to be below shoulder line no more then 4" below shoulder

Pics of the door bars easily clearing the stock doors.  Not like it matters since I'll be gutting out the door but good for those that want to retain the stock door and still manage it to fit.

More pics of the roof hoop

Here is what it looks like with slightly tinted windows.  Can hardly see a cage ever existed inside.  I haven't even painted the cage yet.  Once the cage is  painted black nobody would ever noticed a cage was ever in there.  Again it won't matter for me b/c i'll be going with lexan windows for the side doors since im gutting out the doors.  For good to know for those wanting to attain a sleeper street look.

Front view of the window.  You can barely see the a pillar bars but again once painted black and the interior put back in everything will blend in nicely.  I'll be painting all the cage bars black along with painting the interior sheet metal panels black.  Everything will blend in nice.

Well I hope you enjoyed my progress.  More progess pics soon to come in the next month.  Onto using flat sheet metal for the rebuild process.

Well I finally finished off the floor. I was using .030 steel sheet metal. You can use .024 to shave a few more pounds. I had the sections tac welding in 2 inch increments and used body filler to seal it off. I finally laid down black spray paint to blend everything in nicer. Some of the pics were done in low lighting settings near dark time so excuse the blueness in some of the pics. Well the cage and sheetmetal floor is finally done. Onto Brake system next.